Under cabinet lighting can turn dark kitchen countertops into bright, functional workspaces. It adds a sophisticated glow to your cooking area.
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This simple upgrade changes both the functionality and ambiance of your kitchen. Food prep feels safer and, honestly, just more enjoyable.
You can install under cabinet lighting yourself in just a few hours with basic tools and materials. Whether you go for hardwired fixtures or plug-in options, it’s doable if you understand your lighting options, plan the layout, and follow the right steps for your setup.
This guide covers everything from picking the best lighting type for your kitchen to walking you through the installation process step by step. You’ll find out how to plan your project, gather what you need, and dodge common mistakes that can slow things down or cause safety headaches.
Understanding Under-Cabinet Lighting Options
Under cabinet lighting gives your kitchen both practical task lighting and a nice touch of ambiance. The best choice really depends on your needs, cabinet layout, and what kind of light you want.
Benefits and Uses in Kitchens
Under cabinet lighting gets rid of shadows on your countertops while you cook or prep food. This task lighting makes chopping veggies and reading recipes a lot easier—and safer.
The lights also create a warm glow that makes your kitchen more inviting. They highlight your backsplash and countertops, showing off their colors and textures.
LED options are energy-efficient and keep your electric bill low. Most systems run on just 12V or 24V, so they’re safe to install and use.
You can dim most under cabinet lights to set the mood. Bright light is perfect for cooking. Softer light feels cozy for evenings or entertaining.
Types: Strip, Puck, and Tape Lights
Strip lights are rigid bars that you mount right under your cabinets. They give off even light and work well for long cabinet runs. Usually, you get 10-15 years of use from these.
Puck lights are small, round fixtures that create focused spots of light. You can space them under each cabinet section. They’re great for shorter cabinets or accent lighting.
Tape lights are flexible strips with adhesive backing. You can stick them directly to cabinets, bend them around corners, and fit them into tight spots. Cut them at marked sections to fit your cabinets perfectly.
| Light Type | Best For | Installation |
|---|---|---|
| Strip | Long cabinets | Screw mounting |
| Puck | Short sections | Surface mount |
| Tape | Curved areas | Adhesive backing |
Choosing the Right Color Temperature
Color temperature changes how your kitchen looks and feels. Warm white light (2700K-3000K) gives a cozy, classic vibe that pairs well with wood cabinets and warm finishes.
Cool white light (4000K-5000K) brings crisp, clean illumination—ideal for food prep. This works best in modern kitchens and with white or gray cabinets.
Neutral white light (3500K) strikes a balance between warm and cool. It fits with most kitchen styles and color schemes.
Try out different color temperatures in your space before deciding. What looks good at the store might look totally different under your cabinets.
Planning Your Under-Cabinet Lighting Installation
Good planning makes or breaks your under-cabinet lighting project. You’ll need to measure carefully, pick the right fixtures, and figure out power connections before you start.
Measuring Cabinet Spaces and Determining Placement
Measure the length of each cabinet section where you want lighting. Use a tape measure for the exact dimensions of your upper cabinets.
Write down each measurement. This helps you buy just what you need.
Best placement positions:
- Front third of the cabinet bottom
- 2-3 inches back from the cabinet edge
- Away from cabinet door hinges
Position the lights toward the front to cut down on shadows. If you put them too far back, you’ll get dark spots near the counter edge.
For strip lights and tape lights, measure across multiple cabinets for one long run. Avoid gaps if you can.
Puck lights need their own measurements for each fixture. Space them 12-18 inches apart for even coverage.
Watch for obstacles like mounting brackets or cabinet hardware. These can get in the way of your planned light spots.
Selecting Fixtures and Materials
Pick between three main types of under cabinet lighting based on your needs and budget.
Strip lights give the most even lighting. They come in lengths from 12 to 48 inches and connect end-to-end.
Tape lights work great around corners and curves. Cut them to custom lengths and stick them right to your cabinets.
Puck lights focus light on specific spots. They’re nice for highlighting certain areas or showing off decor.
Consider these factors:
| Factor | Strip Lights | Tape lights | Puck Lights |
|---|---|---|---|
| Coverage | Even | Even | Spotty |
| Installation | Moderate | Easy | Easy |
| Cost | Medium | Low | High |
| Dimming | Yes | Yes | Limited |
LEDs last longer and use less energy than other bulbs. They also don’t heat up your cabinets as much.
Buy extra connectors, mounting clips, and wire nuts. Having spares saves you from last-minute trips.
Planning for Power Sources
Find existing electrical sources near your cabinets before you start. Check for outlets behind your base cabinets.
Don’t use kitchen countertop outlets as power sources. Building codes don’t allow it.
Good power source options:
- Hallway outlets behind cabinets
- Light switches with space
- Basement junction boxes
- Non-kitchen wall outlets
Turn off power at the breaker before checking any wires. Use a voltage tester to make sure the wires are safe.
Add up all lights and appliances on the circuit to see if it can handle more load. Most under cabinet lighting uses just 20-40 watts, so you’re probably fine, but check anyway.
Plan your wire routing through base cabinets to reach each light. Hide the wires for a clean look and to keep them safe.
Essential Tools and Materials Checklist
Having the right tools and materials ready before you start makes installing under-cabinet lighting way smoother. You’ll need basic electrical tools, lighting components, and some safety gear to do the job right.
Electrical Tools You’ll Need
A cordless drill with spade bits lets you drill holes to run wires through cabinet frames. You’ll want clean, precise openings without damaging anything.
A wire stripper helps you remove insulation from electrical wires. This ensures solid connections between your fixtures and the power supply.
Your voltage tester keeps you safe by confirming the power’s off before you touch anything. Always double-check.
Wire connectors (wire nuts) join wires securely. Get a few sizes to match your wires.
A hacksaw or jigsaw helps you cut through materials if you need to modify mounting surfaces. These tools give you clean openings for fixtures.
Fish tape makes it easier to pull 12/2 NM electrical cable through walls and tight spaces.
Lighting Kits and Accessories
LED strip lights or puck lights are the main part of your system. Pick fixtures rated for your kitchen’s voltage.
Aluminum channels hold LED strips in place and help with heat. They also make the install look more professional.
A dimmer switch lets you control how bright your lights get. Just make sure it’s compatible with your LEDs.
Cable clamps secure wiring inside junction boxes and prevent damage. They’re small but important.
Junction boxes keep electrical connections safe. Use the right size for your wires and mounting needs.
Mounting brackets attach fixtures to cabinet undersides. Different brackets work with different cabinet materials and fixture types.
Safety Equipment and Supplies
Cable staples secure wiring along cabinet undersides if your local code allows it. They keep wires from dangling.
A GFCI outlet might be required for safety, especially in kitchens. Check your local codes.
Electrical tape insulates wire connections and adds another layer of protection. Use high-quality tape.
Safety glasses protect your eyes while drilling or cutting. Always wear them with power tools.
Work gloves keep your hands safe and give you a better grip. Just make sure they don’t make you clumsy.
Preparing for Installation
Safety and proper surface preparation matter before you start installing under-cabinet lighting. These steps help your project go smoothly and last longer.
Ensuring Electrical Safety
Turn off the power at the main panel before any electrical work. This is non-negotiable.
Use a voltage tester to double-check that the power’s really off. Test the tester on a working outlet first to be sure it works. Then check all outlets and switches you’ll touch.
Essential safety equipment:
- Safety glasses for drilling and cutting
- Voltage tester for electrical safety
- Work gloves for handling materials
If your kitchen doesn’t have a GFCI outlet near where you’ll work, consider adding one. GFCI outlets protect against shock where water’s around.
Follow all instructions for your lighting components. Each product might have its own quirks or steps.
Cleaning and Prepping Cabinet Surfaces
Clean the undersides of your cabinets thoroughly before you install anything. Grease or dust will keep LED strips from sticking.
Remove all dust and grease with a degreasing cleaner. Kitchen cabinets collect a surprising amount of residue over time.
Wipe down the surface with rubbing alcohol after cleaning. This gets rid of any leftover grime and helps the adhesive stick.
Let the cabinets dry completely before moving on. Moisture under LED strips can lead to adhesive failure or even electrical problems.
While surfaces dry, mark your planned installation spots. Measure carefully and use a pencil to show where each strip will go.
Step-by-Step Installation Process
The installation process has three main phases: running electrical cable and installing boxes, connecting power with outlets, and mounting the lighting fixtures. Each step needs attention to safety and proper wiring.
Running the Electrical Cable and Mounting Boxes
Turn off power at the breaker before you start. Use a voltage tester to make sure the electricity is really off.
Install a two-gang electrical box above your upper cabinets for the power supply and dimmer switch. Cut a hole in the drywall with a saw. Position the box so it’s accessible but hidden.
Run 12/2 NM electrical cable from your power source to the new box. Use fish tape to pull the cable through the wall. If you’re connecting to an existing outlet, remove it and feed the cable through a knockout in the box.
Drill 1/2-inch holes through cabinet sides for low-voltage wiring. This lets the LED tape wiring run under cabinets without being seen.
Safety tip: Always wear safety glasses when drilling. Clamp scrap wood inside cabinets to prevent tear-out.
Connecting the Power: GFCI Outlets and Electrical Boxes
Strip insulation from your 12/2 cable ends. Connect the new wiring to your existing outlet with wire connectors. Match all white wires, then all black wires, and finally ground wires.
Install a GFCI outlet in the new box if the lighting is near water. Standard outlets are fine for cabinets away from sinks.
Connect your dimmer switch as the instructions say. Attach the power supply’s red wire to the positive terminal and black wire to the negative terminal on the wireless dimmer.
Wire connection order:
- White wires (neutral) together
- Black wires (hot) together
- Ground wires together
- Use proper wire connectors
Secure all connections inside the box before putting outlet covers back on.
Mounting and Wiring the Lighting Fixtures
Clean cabinet undersides with degreasing cleaner, then rubbing alcohol. This helps the LED strips stick.
Position LED strips 1-2 inches back from the cabinet face. You’ll get even light across your countertop and backsplash.
Cut LED tape only at marked copper contact points with scissors. Measure each cabinet section separately for a good fit.
Connect LED strips to extension wiring using clamp connectors. Align polarity carefully—positive to positive, negative to negative. The LED logo should face up when you insert it.
Use a terminal block to split power for different cabinet runs. Connect the main wire from your dimmer to one side. Join extension wires from LED strips to the other side.
Installation steps:
- Peel adhesive backing from LED strips
- Press firmly under cabinets
- Connect extension wires at each joint
- Secure connections with electrical tape
- Test everything before finalizing
Mount the wireless switch plate on your wall where it’s handy. The switch should pair automatically with your dimmer when you turn the power back on.
Customizing and Enhancing Your Lighting
You can turn basic under-cabinet lights into a much more impressive setup with a good dimmer switch, the right color temperature, and tidy wire management.
These upgrades not only make your lighting more practical, but they also give your kitchen a polished appearance.
Installing and Using a Dimmer Switch
A dimmer switch lets you adjust brightness for different moods and tasks.
You’ll need to pick the right dimmer for your type of lights.
LED lights need an LED-compatible dimmer switch. Standard dimmers usually make LEDs flicker or buzz, which is annoying. Always check your light manufacturer’s specs to see which dimmer works best.
Before you do anything, turn off power at the circuit breaker. Use a voltage tester to double-check the power’s off.
Take out the old switch and disconnect the wires.
Connect the dimmer’s wires to your circuit wires. Most dimmers have two black wires that go to the hot wires. Attach the green or bare copper wire to the ground.
Dimmer Switch Compatibility:
- Incandescent/Halogen: Standard dimmer switch
- LED: LED-compatible electronic dimmer
- Fluorescent: Special fluorescent dimmer (if dimmable)
After you finish installing, test your dimmer at different brightness levels. Good dimmers should dim smoothly without flicker or weird buzzing.
Adjusting and Testing Color Temperature
Color temperature changes how your kitchen feels. Warm light feels cozy, while cool light helps with detail work.
Most under-cabinet LEDs come in three color temperatures. Warm white (2700K-3000K) feels like old-school incandescent bulbs. Neutral white (3500K-4000K) gives you a balanced look. Cool white (5000K-6500K) feels a lot like daylight.
Go with warm white if you want a comfortable vibe for hanging out. Choose cool white if you need to see every detail when prepping food or reading recipes. Neutral white is a safe, all-purpose pick.
Some LED strips let you adjust the color temperature after they’re installed. These cost a bit more, but the flexibility is pretty nice. Try different settings during your usual kitchen activities to see what you like best.
Think about your kitchen’s existing lighting before picking a color temperature. Try to match under-cabinet lights to your main lights for a consistent look.
Tips for Concealing Wires and Achieving a Professional Look
Visible wires can make even fancy lighting look cheap. Plan your wire routes before you start, or you’ll regret it later.
Run wires inside cabinets if you can. Use the space behind drawers and shelves. Drill small holes through cabinet walls to connect everything.
Wire concealment methods:
- Adhesive wire channels along cabinet edges
- Cable management clips under cabinet lips
- Wire molding painted to match cabinets
- Flexible conduit for exposed spots
Secure all connections with wire nuts or connectors. Loose wires can be dangerous and cause flickering.
Use cable clamps where wires enter fixtures.
Paint wire channels and covers to match your cabinets. They’ll almost disappear. Clean the surfaces before painting to help the paint stick.
Hide transformers and drivers inside cabinets when possible. Make sure there’s enough space for heat to escape. Label your connections so future maintenance isn’t a headache.
Maintenance and Troubleshooting
Your under-cabinet lighting doesn’t need much upkeep to stay in good shape. You can usually fix most issues quickly with some basic troubleshooting and easy part swaps.
Replacing Bulbs and Fixtures
LED bulbs in under-cabinet lights tend to last 15,000 to 25,000 hours before you need to swap them out. If you notice dimming or flickering, that’s your cue.
For puck lights and individual fixtures:
- Turn off power at the switch or circuit breaker
- Let fixtures cool down all the way
- Twist counterclockwise to remove old bulbs
- Install new bulbs by twisting clockwise until snug
For LED strip lights:
- Cut damaged sections at the marked cut points
- Peel off adhesive backing from new strips
- Connect new strips with the right connectors
- Test connections before you finish installing
Keep spare bulbs and connector pieces nearby. Always match the color temperature (in Kelvin) when replacing parts so your lighting looks even.
Replace the whole fixture if several bulbs go out or the housing gets damaged. Most under-cabinet fixtures are easy to remove with clips or screws.
Addressing Common Issues After Installation
Flickering lights usually mean you’ve got loose wire connections or the wrong dimmer switch. Double-check that all the wire nuts feel tight, and make sure your dimmer actually works with LEDs.
Uneven lighting pops up when you space fixtures too far apart or mount them at different heights. Try adding another fixture in the gap, or just tweak the mounting spots a bit for better coverage.
Shadows on countertops? That’s probably because the lights sit too far back under the cabinets. Slide those fixtures closer to the front edge, and you’ll get rid of those annoying dark areas.
Lights won’t turn on after installation:
- Check if the circuit breaker tripped
- Try plugging another device into the outlet
- Make sure all the connections are snug
- Double-check the switch wiring
Wipe down fixtures every month with a damp microfiber cloth to keep grease and dust from building up. Don’t use harsh chemicals—they can mess up LED components or ruin the finish.