A cluttered laundry room can turn a quick chore into a headache. Adding cabinets gives you organized storage and turns that messy utility area into a functional workspace that actually makes your day-to-day routine easier.
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When you install laundry room cabinets, you need to plan carefully, measure precisely, prep the walls, and use secure mounting techniques so your storage actually lasts. You’ll need some basic tools and a bit of DIY confidence, but honestly, most homeowners can handle this with a little guidance.
This guide takes you through the whole process, from planning and measuring to the finishing touches. You’ll see how to mount both wall and base cabinets, create custom storage, and add those details that make your laundry room not just functional but genuinely nice to use.
Planning Your Laundry Room Cabinet Installation
Good planning makes the difference between a laundry room that works and one that just wastes space. You’ve got to measure carefully, pick the right cabinets, and choose materials that can handle moisture and daily use.
Assessing Space and Storage Requirements
Start by measuring your laundry room’s dimensions. Write down the width, height, and depth of every wall where you want to put cabinets.
Pay close attention to where your washer, dryer, and any utility hookups are. Those will affect where cabinets can go and how much wall space you really have.
Don’t forget obstacles like light switches, outlets, water hookups, and gas lines. Mark their exact spots on your sketch.
Think about what you actually want to store:
- Detergent and fabric softener
- Cleaning supplies and rags
- Extra linens and towels
- Out-of-season stuff, like beach towels
Keep the things you use all the time at eye level, between 30-60 inches from the floor.
Try to plan for the future too. Storage needs change as your family grows or you pick up new cleaning products.
Selecting Laundry Room Cabinets and Accessories
Stock cabinets from a big box store are the cheapest route. They come in standard sizes and basic finishes—nothing fancy, but they get the job done.
Pick materials that resist moisture for laundry room conditions. Look for cabinets with:
- Plywood or MDF with waterproof coating
- Soft-close hinges that won’t warp
- Adjustable shelves so you can fit tall bottles
| Cabinet Feature | Benefit for Laundry Rooms |
|---|---|
| Soft-close hinges | Prevents slamming from vibrations |
| Adjustable shelves | Accommodates different bottle sizes |
| Pull-out drawers | Easy access to deep storage |
Accessories can make a big difference. Pull-out baskets are great for sorting, and built-in hampers keep dirty laundry out of sight.
If you add lighting inside upper cabinets, you’ll find stuff faster and the whole room feels bigger.
Choosing Between Wall Cabinets, Base Cabinets, and Open Shelving
Wall cabinets give you the most storage without eating up floor space. Mount them 12-15 inches above the washer and dryer so you can reach everything easily.
Screw wall cabinets right into the studs. They’ll hold heavy jugs of detergent safely above your work area.
Base cabinets provide counter space for folding or sorting laundry. They work best if your laundry room isn’t cramped.
Hide ugly stuff like trash cans or buckets in base cabinets. Enclosed storage makes the room look tidier.
Open shelving costs less and keeps everyday items within reach. But let’s be honest, open shelves collect dust and can look messy.
Mix it up for the best results. Wall cabinets for bulk storage, base cabinets for hidden stuff, and a few open shelves for things you grab all the time.
Measuring and Marking for Cabinet Placement
Getting your measurements and markings right is key. You’ll need to find studs, measure carefully, and plan around anything that’s already in the way so your cabinets fit and stay put.
Taking Accurate Measurements
Draw a quick sketch of your laundry room. It helps to have a visual for your numbers.
Use a tape measure to check the height from floor to ceiling. Jot that down on your sketch. Most laundry rooms have 8-foot ceilings, but sometimes they’re lower or higher.
Measure each wall from corner to corner. Check if the corners are square by measuring diagonally. If both diagonals match, you’re good.
To find the highest point on your floor:
- Put a straight board against the wall
- Set a level on top
- Look for any gaps between the board and the floor
- Mark the highest spot you find
Uneven floors can mess up your whole install, so use that high point as your reference for cabinet heights.
Check the size and location of any outlets, switches, or plumbing. Mark them on your sketch with exact distances from corners and the floor.
Marking Stud Locations with a Stud Finder
Studs are what hold your cabinets up. Grab a stud finder and run it along the walls where your cabinets will hang.
Calibrate your stud finder if it needs it. Usually, you just press a button and slide it along the wall.
To mark studs:
- Start at a corner and slowly move the stud finder along the wall
- When it signals, mark the spot with a pencil
- Find both edges of the stud and mark the center
- Repeat across the wall
Most studs are 16 or 24 inches apart. If your marks don’t line up with that, double-check or tap the wall to hear for a solid spot.
A laser level can make marking heights and lines way easier. It projects a straight line so your cabinet mounting points stay even.
Use painter’s tape for temporary stud marks if you don’t want pencil on your walls.
Planning Around Appliances, Windows, and Fixtures
You’ll need to work around your washer and dryer, windows, and any utility hookups. Measure these carefully to avoid headaches later.
Measure around your appliances:
- Width and depth of each machine
- Height with lids or doors open
- Distance from the wall to the front
- Where the outlets and water lines are
Standard washers and dryers are about 27 inches wide and 30-35 inches deep. Top-loaders need 20-24 inches of space above for the lid.
For windows, check the width, height, and how far they are from corners. Don’t forget the trim depth—it affects how close cabinets can get.
Mark outlets, switches, and plumbing on your sketch with their exact height from the floor and how far they are from corners.
Leave enough room:
- 3-6 inches between cabinets and appliances
- Don’t block outlets with cabinet doors
- Keep the right clearances around utility hookups
Use your measurements to plan cabinet placement before you cut or drill anything.
Preparing the Laundry Room for Cabinet Installation
Before you start, clear the area and make sure you know where any plumbing or wires are. This helps you avoid mistakes and makes sure your cabinets will fit.
Clearing and Protecting the Workspace
Take everything out of the laundry room—detergent, supplies, anything stored there. You need full access to the walls and floor.
Move the washer and dryer out of your way. Leave at least 3 feet of space so you can work safely. If they’re too heavy, get some help.
Wipe down the walls with a damp cloth to get rid of dust and grime. Dirt can mess with mounting hardware.
Use a level to check if the walls are straight. If you find uneven spots, mark them with a pencil.
Cover your appliances and floor with plastic or drop cloths. This keeps them safe from dust and scratches.
Bring in good lighting. You’ll need to see clearly when you’re drilling or lining up cabinets.
Checking for Plumbing and Electrical Obstructions
Use your stud finder to mark studs with a pencil. Cabinet screws need to go into studs for strength.
Check for plumbing lines before you drill. Laundry rooms often have pipes in the walls. Look for access panels or use a pipe detector if you have one.
Find all electrical outlets and switches in your work area. You might need to work around them or call an electrician if they’re in the way.
Turn off the power at the breaker before you drill near outlets. Better safe than sorry.
If there are gas lines, mark them with bright tape. Don’t drill near gas—call a pro if you’re not sure.
Take photos of the walls before you start. They’re handy if you need to find utilities later.
Installing Wall Cabinets
You need to mount wall cabinets securely to studs and line them up just right for a pro look. A ledger board helps hold cabinets up while you work, and filler bars close up any awkward gaps.
Attaching a Ledger Board for Support
A ledger board acts as a temporary shelf to hold your cabinets while you install them. It’s a lifesaver—no need to balance heavy cabinets and drill at the same time.
Cut a straight 2×4 to the width you need. Mark the bottom edge of where your cabinets will go, using a level.
Screw the ledger board into at least two studs, right below your line.
Double-check that the ledger board is level. If it’s off, your cabinets will end up crooked.
Let the board stick out a bit past your cabinet edges. This gives you some wiggle room for adjustments.
Securing Cabinets to Wall Studs
Studs are what keep your cabinets from crashing down. Don’t trust wall anchors alone.
Find the studs with your stud finder and mark them. Most are 16 or 24 inches apart.
Set your first cabinet on the ledger board, flush against the wall. Make sure it’s level and plumb.
Drill pilot holes through the cabinet’s back rail into the studs. This stops the wood from splitting.
Drive 2.5-inch cabinet screws through the rail into the studs. Use at least two screws per stud.
If you hit a spot with no stud, use heavy-duty wall anchors rated for 75 pounds or more. But try to hit studs whenever you can.
Leveling and Aligning Cabinets
Alignment matters a lot for looks and function. Take your time here.
Work from left to right or right to left, keeping the sequence going. It helps keep everything lined up.
Use a 4-foot level to check that each cabinet is plumb and level. Shim behind the cabinet if you need to make adjustments.
Clamp neighboring cabinets together at the face frames before screwing them to the wall. That way, the front edges line up.
Check the cabinet doors for even gaps when they’re closed. Uneven gaps mean something’s off.
Measure from the ceiling to the top of each cabinet. The numbers should match on all cabinets.
Filling Gaps with Filler Bars
Filler bars close up gaps between cabinets and walls or between different-sized cabinets. They make everything look built-in.
Measure the gap at the top, middle, and bottom. Walls are rarely perfectly straight, so check all three spots.
Cut your filler bar to the largest measurement. Scribe and trim it to fit the wall’s shape.
Hold the filler bar against the cabinet face and mark where it hits the wall. Use a compass or scribe to trace the wall’s shape onto the bar.
Trim it with a jigsaw or hand plane. Test-fit and tweak until it sits flush.
Screw the filler bar to the cabinet’s face frame from inside the cabinet. That way, you won’t see any fasteners.
Installing Base Cabinets and Countertops
Base cabinets need to be level and anchored well so your workspace is solid. Good measurements and countertop installation finish the job.
Leveling and Anchoring Base Cabinets
First, measure and mark the cabinet height on your wall. Usually, that’s about 34.5 inches up from the floor. Grab a level and draw a straight reference line across the wall.
Find wall studs with a stud finder, then mark where they are. You really want to hit at least two studs per cabinet to keep things secure.
If your layout has corner cabinets, start by positioning those. Place the cabinet against the wall, then check for level in every direction.
Slide wooden shims underneath and behind the cabinets to get rid of gaps and line everything up. Keep adding shims at low spots until your level says the cabinet is perfectly straight.
Essential tools for this step:
- Electric drill with bits
- Cabinet screws (2.5-3 inches long)
- Level (4-foot recommended)
- Wooden shims
Drill pilot holes through the cabinet’s back rail straight into the wall studs. Secure each cabinet to the wall by driving cabinet screws through these holes.
Connect cabinets side by side with 2.5-inch screws through the face frames. That way, you get a solid, stable unit that stays put.
Adding Counters and Finishing Touches
Measure the tops of your cabinets carefully before installing countertops. Most base cabinets are 24 inches deep, so let your countertop hang over the front by about 1-2 inches.
If you need to cut laminate countertops, use a circular saw or miter saw with a fine-tooth blade. Cut from the back side so you don’t chip the visible surface.
Pre-made countertops are a great choice for laundry rooms, and they’re usually cheaper than custom ones. Standard depths will fit most base cabinets without a fuss.
Install the countertops by screwing them from underneath using corner brackets. Just be careful not to use screws that are too long, or you’ll poke right through the surface.
Add hardware like handles, knobs, or drawer pulls after the countertops are in. Waiting until the end helps you avoid scratches or dings.
Check all the doors and drawers for proper alignment. Adjust the hinges if you need to, so everything opens smoothly and the gaps look even.
Finishing Details and Custom Storage Solutions
The last details really make your laundry room look finished. Good shelf support, decorative touches, and sealed joints give you both function and style.
Installing Shelf Braces and Floating Shelf Brackets
Shelf braces help support heavy things like detergent or cleaning supplies. Install metal shelf braces every 16-24 inches along the inside cabinet walls.
Mark bracket spots with a level, then drill pilot holes so the wood doesn’t split.
Floating shelf brackets give you a clean, modern look for open shelves. Pick brackets that can hold at least 50 pounds per foot if you’re storing laundry stuff.
Try to mount brackets directly into wall studs. If that’s not possible, use the right wall anchors for drywall.
Keep brackets about 6-8 inches from the ends of your shelves for the best support. That way, your shelves won’t sag.
Test each bracket by pressing down before you load up the shelves. When installed right, brackets should feel rock solid.
Adding Open Shelving or Decorative Molding
Open shelving is great for using the space between cabinets and the ceiling. Set the shelves 12-15 inches apart to fit most laundry containers.
Cut your shelves about 1/8 inch shorter than the opening. That little bit of extra space makes installation easier and lets wood expand or contract.
Sand the shelf edges and finish them to match your cabinets. Add a dab of wood glue where the shelf meets the bracket for extra strength.
Decorative molding gives your cabinets a professional, built-in look. Install crown molding along the tops for a nice finish.
Cut corners at a 45-degree angle with a miter saw for clean joints.
Fill any nail holes with wood putty before painting. Always prime the molding before you paint for the best results.
Sealing Joints with Paintable Caulk
Paintable caulk fills those annoying gaps between cabinets and the walls or ceiling. I’d recommend grabbing a high-quality acrylic latex caulk, especially since laundry rooms tend to get pretty damp.
Start by cleaning every surface you’ll caulk. Wipe away dust, debris, and any loose paint you spot.
Cut the caulk tube tip at a 45-degree angle. Make the hole just a bit smaller than the gap you’re sealing.
Hold the caulk gun at an angle and squeeze with steady pressure. Move along the gap so the caulk actually gets pushed in.
You’ll want to smooth the line with your finger or a caulk tool pretty quickly, within 5 to 10 minutes. I find working in small sections makes it way easier.
Let the caulk dry for about 24 hours before you paint over it. That way, it sticks well and won’t crack later.
Once it’s dry, paint right over the caulk using your cabinet paint. The joints should look seamless when you’re done.